Charred Broccoli & Scallion Panzanella
Because it's Broccoli Salad Season. Also, a few unlocked recipes.
Broccoli is such a staple at my house that sometimes I forget how good it is. The other night, I cooked a pile of florets and scallion segments — the broccoli trimmed small, with wispy little mini stalks — in my wok. I used strong, high heat, swirling and shaking nonstop, because I wanted it all singed and somewhat dry, with just a bit of vegetal crunch left in it.
I couldn’t stop snacking on it as it sat there cooling, such that after a little while there wasn’t enough for it to make up a side dish on it’s own. So, it became an addition to a simple very salad — romaine hearts, a sliced-up cucumber, and the charred broccoli dressed in a rich, punchy vinaigrette.
I was so pleased with that silly salad, where it made a pile of lettuce leaves substantial and varied with texture. I loved how the charred and singed broccoli maintained its “chari-ness” by being dressed after it was cooked and cooled. And remembering that a year ago I shared a picnic broccoli salad that was a hit, this little burst of excitement about made me think we must be entering Broccoli Salad Season.
Thanks also to a glut of bread in my kitchen, my mind went to panzanella, the Tuscan bread salad traditionally made with ripe tomatoes and leftover bread. Good tomatoes are still a little ways off here in New York, so a charred broccoli treatment fit the bill.
In the interest of more texture, and to make it more of a main-dish salad, I’ve added hulled and well toasted sunflower seeds (underrated, in my opinion), shavings of cheese, and beans (I like both cannellini and garbanzos). Admittedly, if I had a grill, I’d make it outdoors by charring everything right over the coals, even eliminating the panzanella aspect and instead scooping the well-dressed broccoli and scallion salad over grilled toasts. But without one, the oven is up to the task.
A Few Quick Items
Thank you for supporting the new edition of Veggie Burgers Every Which Way — it’s been out now for about 3 weeks and I’ve immensely enjoyed seeing it in bookstores, having the opportunity to reflect on my veggie burger journey, and of course hearing about the ones you’re cooking. Don’t miss this wonderful Eater piece by Bettina Makalintal; Ben Mims’ veggie burger spotlight in the Los Angeles Times summer grilling package; and Abigail Koeffler’s lovely post in her lovely newsletter.
It’s been about 9 months of this Substack newsletter. Most of you only hear from me about once a month, with new recipes and interviews, but paid subscribers have been getting a new recipe every week. Looking over the ever-expanding catalog, I decided to unlock a few of my favorites, which I hope you’ll enjoy.
And don’t sleep on last year’s Picnic Broccoli Salad.
Charred Broccoli & Scallion Panzanella
Fresh or day-old bread both work here, and the airy structure of ciabatta or a country loaf is most ideal. Avoid enriched or sweet breads — the only ingredients should be flour, salt, and water.
When cooking the vegetables, I’ve instructed that you not stir them as they roast. This is because stirring will compromise the char.
Take care to toast or roast your sunflower seeds well, so as to maximize the flavor and the crunch.
Yield Serves 4 as a main or 6 as a side | Prep & cook time About 45 minutes
About 1 pound broccoli (2 crowns or stalks)
1 bunch scallions, ends trimmed
5 to 8 cloves garlic, sliced thinly
9 tablespoons olive oil, divided, plus extra for garnish
Salt
5 cups cubed or torn bread (see note)
1 medium shallot, sliced into thin rings
Big pinch sugar
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Juice of ½ lemon
½ teaspoon honey
1 ½ cups or one 15-ounce can garbanzo or white beans
¼ cup well toasted sunflower seeds
Handful basil leaves, torn
Shavings of manchego, pecorino, aged cheddar, or another semi-firm cheese, to taste (optional)
1. Preheat the oven to 425°F, arrange a rack in the upper third of the oven, and line two baking sheets with parchment. Trim the broccoli crowns into small, thin florets, and the stalk (which should be peeled) into thin coins. Transfer onto one of the sheet pans. Cut the scallions in half width-wise, then cut the thicker white parts in half lengthwise. Then trim all the scallion pieces into 1- to 2-inch segments, and add to the sheet pan along with the garlic, 2 tablespoons olive oil, and a few pinches of salt. Stir to combine, and then roast for 20 to 25 minutes on the upper rack of the oven, rotating the pan halfway through — do not stir the vegetables, though! — until they’re splotched with char and the broccoli is pleasingly crisp-tender. Cool.
2. Spread the bread onto the other sheet pan and toss with 2 tablespoons oil. Once the broccoli is cooked, move the bread into the oven and reduce the temperature to 375°F. Bake for 15 minutes, until lightly toasted. Cool.
3. To make the dressing, combine the shallot with ¼ teaspoon kosher salt (or ⅛ teaspoon fine salt), the sugar, and red wine vinegar in a small jar. Let pickle for about 5 minutes, then add the lemon juice, honey, and remaining 5 tablespoons olive oil. Shake until emulsified.
4. Combine the vegetables, toasted bread, beans, and dressing in a large bowl and toss to combine. Let sit for 10 to 15 minutes, then to serve add the sunflower seeds, basil, and cheese, if using, and toss once more. Garnish with a little extra olive oil if you like.
I don’t think about pineapple much and don’t tend to gravitate toward it, but I adored Hawaiian pizza and I truly can’t wait to make this tofu. It sounds so delicious! Thanks for the inventive take! I also love the Charlie Bird farro salad.