Our House Slaw
Discover more from Family Friend by Lukas Volger
A great slaw is a great pleasure, especially this time of year when a big, crunchy bite of raw veg can provide the brightness and freshness I crave. And because a head of cabbage is an Energizer Bunny of a vegetable that just keeps giving and giving, I’ve made hundreds of slaws over the years — there are five of them in Start Simple.
This is my current favorite and perhaps my best yet. I’ve been thinking of it as our “house slaw,” because it’s one that I’ve been chasing in my head all winter and finally pinned down. It’s full of flavor and texture, has a distinctive balance of savory and sweet, and comes together in a flash. And because I like my slaws as more of a star attraction than side dish or garnish, I load it up accordingly. This one has toasted nuts, chewy bits of dates, shaved fresh fennel, and more.
Borrowing from Noah Galuten’s terrific dressing, I’ve incorporated a spoonful of tahini into my soy sauce-based vinaigrette, which creates a light creaminess that coats the vegetables, rather than just quickly passes through them on the way to the bottom of the bowl (as can be the case with many slaw dressings).
But what I find to be a great thing here, and about slaw in general, is that after you’ve made it, you’re 90% of the way to a meal. You can always make it more hearty by folding in cooked grains or noodles (this is especially good when you have leftover slaw that’s no longer so crunchy), or topping with a boiled egg, pan-fried tofu, or any type of protein you please.
What’s not to love? Bless that beautiful cabbage and fetch your mandoline!
Cabbage & Fennel Slaw
As I say in the recipe, make sure to properly toast your nuts to get maximum flavor and crunchiness — with cashews especially, you want them golden brown all the way through.
I love the combination of sweet cashews or almonds, plus the toasty, almost grassy flavor of sunflower seeds. But of course you can omit or substitute other nuts/seeds as you please.
Fold in cooked wild rice, chewy grains like farro, or noodles to make this a more substantial salad, in which case you may want to whip up some extra dressing, and/or top with your favorite proteins.
Remember to save your fennel cores and stalks for stock — the scraps will keep in the freezer for as long as you need them to.
Yield 4 servings as a side, or 2 as a main | Prep & cook time 20 minutes
⅓ cup raw almonds or cashews
¼ cup hulled sunflower seeds
½ head medium cabbage (green or red), cored
1 small or ½ med-large head fennel, cored, a few fronds reserved
1 medium carrot, grated
2 dates, pitted and cut into small pieces
Dressing
2 tablespoons tamari or soy sauce
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar or wine vinegar
1 tablespoon well-stirred tahini
1 tablespoon light olive oil or avocado oil
½ teaspoon honey, maple syrup, or date syrup
1. I wouldn’t normally provide instructions for roasting nuts, but I want you to make sure to toast them all the way through, for maximum crunch and toastiness: Preheat your oven or toaster oven to 325°F. Arrange the cashews and sunflower seeds on opposite sides of a pan, or in separate oven-safe dishes, and roast until well darkened and fragrant — the seeds will take 8 to 10 minutes, and the nuts 15 to 20 (slice one in half to see that it’s toasted all the way through). Cool completely, then break or coarsely chop the nuts.
2. To make the dressing, combine all the ingredients in a small jar or bowl and shake/whisk to combine.
3. Using a mandoline or a sharp chef’s knife, thinly shave the cabbage and fennel. Add to a mixing bowl with the grated carrot and dates. Toss with the dressing to taste — I almost always use all of it, since I want a punchy, flavorful slaw. Garnish with the nuts and fennel fronds and serve immediately.
Note: As with all slaws, the salt in the dressing pulls moisture from the veggies and they lose their crunch over time. That said, I pack up leftover slaw and eat it the next day all the time. But for best results, store the salad and the dressing separately, and toss just before serving
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