Green Goddess Frittata
A new recipe for the green season, plus a Very Important Cooking Tip
My small, 6-inch cast-iron skillet is one of my favorite pans I own. I picked it up many years ago from a restaurant supply store on the Bowery here in NYC for very cheap, and what I like so much about it is its relatively long handle; compared to similar ones by Lodge and Le Creuset which have short, nubby ones, this is easy to grip with an oven mitt or towel. It’s also just a perfect thing for a small household and I use it nonstop for toasting nuts and seeds, scrambling 2 or 3 eggs, searing off a veggie burger, frying a batch of frizzled shallots. It’s well seasoned from much use, and has all kinds of nostalgic value. If I ever become a camping person, this pan’ll be coming with me on those outings, and when I die, someone will certainly be listed in my will to inherit it.
I like to come up with excuses to use it, which is the case for this frittata. Encouraged by the tub of fresh herbs I had on hand from a bunch of cooking last week, it’s inspired by the herby, tangy, spring-appropriate profile of Green Goddess dressing. Tender herbs and blanched spinach are blitzed into a creamy, mayonnaise-enriched whip that’s thicker than salad dressing, and then this is dolloped over a half-cooked frittata, just before it goes into the oven. Capers are also sprinkled on top, which add additional tang and punch. When the frittata comes out of the oven, those green goddess dollops will have stayed quite a bit custardy, playing so nicely against the soft but sturdy-set eggs. I think it’s imperative to eat this one warm.
If you don’t have a small cast-iron skillet, you can use a smaller nonstick one (if it’s oven safe) or double or triple the recipe to make it fit a larger pan. But while we’re on the topic of cast-iron, I’ve been wanting to share a quick cooking tip, because I frequently see people a make the following mistake:
They don’t preheat their pans! I hate to sound harpy but I really think that practicing this step will make a big difference in your cooking. In some cases, like if you’re making tomato sauce, this may not matter too much to the outcome. But when you’re making eggs, and if you’re not using a Teflon- or ceramic lined nonstick pan, the failure to preheat your pan is going to mean Stick City.
Preheat your pan before you add any fat to it, even if you’re using low heat. Think of it like preheating your oven. You want a stable environment when you add food, not a vessel that’s still trying to come to temperature.
When the oil or fat heats immediately on contact, as it should, it will form a protective seal against the pan for the food that comes next. And while a cast-iron pan will never fully replicate a synthetic nonstick pan lining, if it is properly preheated, you’ll be able to slip your frittata out of it by just running a thin spatula around the edge, giving it a little shake to loosen it at the base, and slip it right out.
Once you get used to preheating your pan, you’ll be able to sense when your pan is hot enough by just waving your hand over it, but you can also wet your hand and flick a few beads of water into the pan — they should sizzle and evaporate pretty quickly; if they don’t, give the pan more time. I swear this will make a difference, and hope my little digression is helpful!
One quick note about the capers in this Frittata — like the olives in the Bean Ragout from a few weeks ago, these are from a new-to-me company called Big Picture Foods. They have a whole line of regeneratively grown (meaning “soil first”) olives and other antipasto-type preserves, which are slowly and naturally fermented in their mother brine. The capers are so good! Large and meaty, but also so rounded in flavor. They sent me some of their samples to try, and I’ve since been buying them myself after running out.
Green Goddess Frittata
My favorite batch of the Green Goddess Whip use about 1 cup basil, and then about 3/4 cup parsley and 1/4 cup chives. But I’ve left the recipe loose so that you know to use what you’ve got. Stronger herbs like tarragon should be used in smaller quantities, of course.
You’ll have more green goddess whip than you need, but I’m certain you’ll find uses for it — as a dip, a smear for a grain bowl, spreading on sandwiches, etc.
To cook in a 10-inch pan, either double the ingredients for a thin frittata, or triple them for a thicker one.
Yield 2 servings | Prep and cook time About 25 minutes
4 eggs
2 tablespoons whole milk or cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
2 scallions, green and white parts, thinly sliced
About 3 tablespoons Green Goddess Whip (see below)
2 teaspoons capers, rinsed and coarsely chopped
Flaky salt
Green Goddess Whip (makes about 1 cup)
2 cups lightly packed baby spinach
2 cups lightly packed tender herbs like basil, parsley, chives, or cilantro
¼ cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons wine vinegar (white wine, sherry, or champagne)
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
1. To make the Green Goddess Whip: Bring a small or medium saucepan of water to boil, and prepare an ice bath. Once boiling, add the spinach and blanch it for about 30 seconds, until wilted, then transfer to the ice bath. Drain the greens and gently squeeze out all the excess liquid. Combine them with the remaining Green Goddess ingredients in a blender and process until very smooth, scraping down the sides as needed. Taste for salt and acid.
2. Preheat the oven or toaster oven to 400°F. Beat the eggs in a bowl with the milk and a big pinch of salt and a few grinds of pepper.
3. Warm a small skillet — ideally well-seasoned cast-iron or oven-safe nonstick — over medium-high heat and when hot, swirl in the olive oil and add the scallions. Cook until they’re just softened, about 2 minutes, then pour in the eggs. Allow the base and edges to firm up, then work your way around the pan tucking a spatula under an edge to allow uncooked egg to flow beneath. Once the eggs seem about halfway set, dollop about 3 tablespoons of the Green Goddess whip over the surface and sprinkle with the capers. Transfer the pan to the oven and cook for 7 to 10 minutes, until just set in the center.
4. Let sit for a few minutes, then run a spatula around the edge of the frittata and slide it out of the pan, cut into wedges, and serve hot or warm. Top with a drizzle of olive oil and a few pinches of flaky salt, if you like.
I could see the Green Goddess Whip going well on so many things! Truly a good way to have greens on hand. Thanks Lukas!
Cannot wait to try this Luke!! Genius!