Sometimes I look back on old recipes I’ve written and I cringe — how I wish I could just scrap the whole thing and do it over! Reset the tone, tweak some of the ingredients, and better streamline the process. I’ve come to appreciate this response as a sign that I continue to grow, but the fact of what’s on the printed page can be jarring.
But then there are some that I reread and think… hey, nice job, Lukas. In my book Vegetarian Entrees that Won’t Leave You Hungry — much of which I’d love to do over (including the title) — there’s one recipe in particular that I still frequently hear about from readers. Earlier this year I revisited it, and was reminded what a fun and unique little gem it is.
It features bulgur, the cracked wheat groats that seem to be harder to find now than 12 years ago. I was surprised all over again by how remarkably hearty and filling bulgur is, and on top of that how quickly it cooks. Big, succulent strips of seared red onion and wilted kale add to the heartiness, and the dressing is essentially deconstructed into the salad: wine that deglazes the vegetables, a light drizzle of olive oil at the end, fried cumin seeds, and some fresh, vegetal heat in the form of diced jalapeños, all united by the creamy tang of feta. I should also mention that it comes together very quickly.
The only change I’ve made is how I cook the bulgur — I think it benefits from a quick toasting. You can certainly substitute quinoa or rice or another quick-cooking for the bulgur, but if you’re wheat-tolerant and, like me, hadn’t been thinking about bulgur in a while, this is a good opportunity to be reunited. It’s a simple salad, and I’m glad to give it a little boost in your inbox today.
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